Restaurant Review: Talula’s Garden Gets 5 Philly Yums (and a Best of 2021)
By Mark McNease
Restaurant reviews are based on a 5 Yum scale, 5 meaning put it on your must list, 1 meaning avoid at all costs.
Talula’s Garden
210 West Washington Square
Philadelphia, PA 19106
(215) 592-7787
Website: talulasgarde.com
Spend Meter: $$$$
Service: Excellent
Imagine finding a new favorite boutique hotel in Philadelphia’s Center City. Then imagine discovering one of the city’s best restaurants barely a block away. It sounds improbable, but that’s exactly the situation we found ourselves in, waking up in that very hotel, having enjoyed what my husband Frank calls “the best meal of 2021.”
The Morris House Hotel is a true gem nestled in the heart of the historic district. Its designation as a historical site means this beautiful, 18th century structure can’t be torn down. It sits like a jewel from another era amid hospital and office buildings, and there’s a quiet defiance to it: I’m old, I’m elegant, I’m not going away. Note: if a modern aesthetic and a streaming vibe are more to your liking, this hotel may not be for you. But if you enjoy a bit of a staid colonial feel decorated to suit the times it was built in, this is a must-try. You can see my full review and slideshow from our last trip HERE.
Now for that restaurant. Talula’s Garden is a two minute walk from the hotel. Outside dining has been set up in weather-protected stalls you can see as you walk toward the entrance. The interior proper is a comforting mix of low lighting and plants intended to remind diners that everything comes from the land. This is a farm-to-table experience designed to make sure you’re aware of it.
Our server Angie was prompt, attentive and as inviting as the restaurant itself. We knew just looking at the menu we were in for something special, assuming it lived up to its promise … and it did.
We shared the fresh baked cheddar-chive biscuits and salted honey black pepper butter, followed by two orders of the cauliflower soup. Amazing is not an overstatement. The soup was hot, colored with a streak of pesto, and easily the best cauliflower soup we’ve eaten.
For our entrees, Frank had the pan-fried branzino filet served with braised savoy spinach, Valencia oranges, Marcona almonds, Castelvetrano olive & herb salsa Verde. I ordered the Mediterranean style hanger steak with roasted broccoli rabe, radicchio, tomato-harissa jam, and rosemary red wine jus.
Everything was cooked and prepared to perfection. The plating was impeccable, each dish delivered to the table as if from the mist. There was not a single misstep in this meal, including the incredible desserts. We were going to pass on the sweets for the sake of our calorie intake, but what’s a restaurant review without dessert? And thank goodness for the excuse. I had the warm apple Tarte Tatin with caramelized local apples, flaky pastry, buttermilk ice cream, and almond-chia crumb. Frank chose the warm ‘Sticky Toffee’ Zucchini Cake with brown butter-pecan ice cream, streusel and toffee sauce. Superb. The only difficult thing about our experience was ending it!
So there you have two recommendations in one: the Morris House Hotel, and the best meal of our year at Talula’s Garden. Not for the especially budget minded, but consider yourself worth it all.
Mark McNease is the author of ten novels, two short story collections and miscellaneous fiction. He’s the founder and editor of LGBTSr.com, “where age is embraced and life is celebrated.” He was the co-creator of the Emmy and Telly winning children’s program Into the Outdoors, and he currently co-hosts the The Twist Podcast.